How I keep my Marantaceae babies alive.

My usual mixture contains equal parts regular potting soil, coco coir and perlite, plus one additional part made from a mixture of vermiculite, worm castings, charcoal and a small amount of Osmocote.

The exact proportions do not need to be mathematically perfect. The important point is to obtain an airy substrate that retains some moisture without remaining compact and waterlogged.

I do not water according to a fixed schedule. Instead, I lift the pot and judge its weight. With experience, it becomes quite easy to feel whether the substrate is still sufficiently moist.

In my experience, slight underwatering is safer than overwatering. Marantaceae can react dramatically to both, but constantly wet roots are much more difficult to rescue.

The pot should be only slightly larger than the root ball. A pot that is too large contains a lot of substrate that the roots cannot yet use, which means that it remains wet for much longer.

Drainage holes are essential. I also avoid decorative cachepots that fit too tightly around the nursery pot, because the roots still need air circulation.

I place a layer of clay material at the bottom of some decorative pots so that the nursery pot does not stand directly in any remaining water.

Marantaceae are often described as low-light plants, but this does not mean that they prefer dark rooms. Shade in a tropical forest is still considerably brighter than many indoor locations.

Some of my plants receive natural light close to a window, while others grow under horticultural lights. In general, plants receiving more suitable light grow faster and produce larger leaves.

I avoid strong direct southern sunlight, which can damage or bleach the leaves.

During the growing period, I use a regular liquid fertiliser, but for Marantaceae I dilute the recommended quantity by approximately half.

I fertilise only when the substrate is already moist. Applying fertiliser to dry roots increases the risk of damage.

I also use silica. In my experience, it helps produce stronger, thicker leaves and may make the plants somewhat less attractive to spider mites and thrips.

I do not normally use Brussels tap water for my Marantaceae. Instead, I use rainwater and let it reach room temperature for approximately 24 hours before watering.

After adding silica, I adjust the pH of the water. I usually aim for a pH between approximately 6 and 6.5.

Marantaceae can sometimes tolerate humidity around 40% when their other needs are met, but I normally maintain approximately 70% humidity with a humidifier.

Grouping plants together can also help create a slightly more humid local environment.

I do not mist the leaves. The increase in humidity is extremely brief and does not meaningfully change the conditions around the plant.

I regularly shower the plants, clean the leaves with a soft cloth and sometimes spray them with diluted black soap.

Clean leaves make it easier to notice pests early and allow the plant to use light more effectively.

I also prefer transparent nursery pots whenever possible. They make it easier to monitor root health, moisture and the right moment for repotting.