My Belgian Tropics
My Leafy Adventures
My love affair with tropical plants began in November 2022—or rather, that’s when they stopped dying on me. Before that, I had a serious talent for killing everything green. Calatheas, Monsteras, Dracaenas, Begonias… you name it, I probably killed it. The survivors of my plant massacre? A 14-year-old Monstera deliciosa and a resilient Calathea Network (whose age is anyone’s guess because I never expected it to live long).
November 2022 was a turning point when my mother gifted me two new plants (for her birthday, no less). I decided it was time to break my streak and keep them alive. Miraculously, one survived! Riding that wave of success, I became a full-blown plant addict. Two years later, I’m the proud parent of over a hundred plants. My biggest challenge now? Finding space for the next one.
I’m especially in love with Marantaceae for their stunning leaf patterns and Araceae for their wild leaf shapes. My Marantaceae family boasts over 75 varieties (mostly Calatheas), while my Aroid family is more modest—thanks to their tendency to grow huge—with around 20 Monsteras and 10 Alocasias. Feel free to explore (a part of) my Marantaceae and Araceae collections, and if you want to follow the adventures of my leafy babies, catch me on Instagram!
Do I Sell My Plants?
Nope! I often get asked if I sell my plants, but the answer is no. I typically have only one of each variety, and they’re my beloved babies, each with a unique story. I’m not about to turn them into a business.
How Do I Take Care of My Plants?
I spent months diving into plant care research—websites, forums, groups, you name it. Now, I’ve got a routine that keeps 90% of my plants happy (with a few stubborn exceptions).
My care routine is similar for Marantaceae and Aroids, with two key differences:
- aroids get more light
- their soil mix is chunkier.
Here’s my care routine, from most to least important (in my opinion):
- Soil MixIt needs to be well-aerated! There’s no one-size-fits-all, but here’s my mix:
- 1 part regular soil,
- 1 part coco coir,
- 1 part perlite,
- 1 part mix of vermiculite, worm castings, charcoal, and a touch of Osmocote.
- WateringThe golden rule: it’s better to underwater than overwater! And forget about fixed schedules—each plant has its own needs. With Calatheas, there’s no room for error. I water by feeling the weight of the pot; if it’s light, it’s time to water.
- Pot SizeEven with the best soil and watering habits, a tiny Calathea in a giant pot is doomed. The roots won’t absorb all the water, leading to rot. In nature, water drains through the soil—no such luck in a pot. I choose a pot just a bit bigger than the root ball and make sure it has drainage holes. Also, avoid tight decorative pots; they trap air. I place my pots in slightly larger decorative pots with clay at the bottom for airflow. My leafy divas love it!
- LightContrary to popular belief, Calatheas don’t prefer shadow—they tolerate it. Real tropical shadow is much brighter than our homes. My windowsills are packed, and the rest benefit from bright horticultural lights. More light means faster growth and bigger leaves! Just avoid direct sunlight from a south-facing window (though, one of my Calatheas spent the summer there and is still thriving!).
- FeedingSince upping their light, I’ve almost forgotten about fertilizer because they’re growing so fast! But a little fertilizer during the growing season doesn’t hurt. Just remember, with Calatheas, too much fertilizer means ugly leaf spots from root burn. I dilute the recommended dose by half and only feed them when the soil is already moist. I also add silica, which makes their leaves thicker and less appealing to pests like spider mites and thrips.
- Water QualityRegular tap water? Too easy. In Brussels, that’s a no-go. So, I collect rainwater, let it sit for 24 hours to reach room temperature (cold water = grumpy Calatheas), then adjust the pH after adding silica. Yes, it’s practically a chemistry lab, but the right pH (between 6 and 6.5) helps them absorb nutrients better.
- HumidityTropical plants love humidity, but if all previous conditions are met, they can survive with as low as 40% humidity (or so I’ve heard). But I’m a crazy plant lady, so I keep a humidifier running at around 70%. Grouping plants also helps increase humidity. I don’t mist their leaves; after testing, I found it spikes humidity quickly but it drops just as fast—within 10 minutes.
- Extra TipsI love showering my leafy babies, spraying them with diluted black soap, and wiping their leaves with a soft cloth. It may not be strictly necessary, but it removes dust, boosts photosynthesis, and makes the leaves shine! I also always use transparent pots, so I can easily check the roots to see if they’re healthy and whether the plant needs repotting.
That’s pretty much it! I’m not claiming this is the only way to go, but it works for my babies. And honestly, every minute I spend with them brings me joy—sometimes I’m just looking for an excuse to pamper them a bit more!
Want to share your thoughts on this care routine? Or have more questions? Join my Facebook group dedicated to Marantaceae (for French speakers, but everyone’s welcome). I’d love to chat with you!